Benalla Veterinary Clinic
16 Church Street
Benalla, VIC, 3672
admin@benallavetclinic.com.au
www.benallavetclinic.com.au
Phone: 03 5762 2788

We have just had our first birthday under new management and would like to warmly thank all of our clients for their custom over the year.  It has been a terrific year full of exciting challenges.  We hope to continue to provide you all with excellent service and some exciting new diagnostic and surgical equipment to improve the health of our pets.

NEWS FEED

• For all of our cattle producers, remember to vaccinate for pinkeye with Piliguard 3-6 weeks prior to pinkeye season (mid to late spring). With the lack of rainfall so far this spring, it may arrive sooner than we think.
• Spring calving is well under way, so check out this month's article on what is normal and when to contact a vet.
• We will be running the annual Pet Parade for the children at 11am on Saturday 17th October at the Benalla Spring Show. We hope to see you there! 
• Spring is in full swing with pollens abounding, so during October (Dermatology month) you will be automatically entered in a draw to win 3 months of Royal Canin Prescription Food if we have to examine your dog or cat for a skin complaint. 
• Puppy Preschool classes start again in mid October - call 5762 2788 for more information or visit puppy preschool.

Dusty is a lovely 9 ½ year old Cocker Spaniel who we treated recently because he had been scratching his ears. During the examination we discovered an oral mass growing on his upper left jaw. This growth, unbeknownst to the owners, must have arisen over the last few months since his last check up.

A quick decision was made to remove the mass on the grounds that most rapidly growing lumps in the mouth are nasty (malignant or locally invasive). The surgery required the use of an oscillating bone saw to remove a large portion of the left upper jaw bone (partial maxillectomy), as well as multiple adjacent teeth so that clear margins free from the growth could be achieved.

Dusty amazed everyone by happily eating the day after his major surgery. His wounds have healed beautifully and his facial features are only slightly altered. His ear incidently, also responded very well to treatment for a bacterial infection.

Dusty's pathology report was also very positive, with the mass (an ossifying fibromatous epulis) having been totally removed with little chance of regrowth.

It really does pay to look inside your pet’s mouth on a regular basis. Droopy lips can hide large problems!

Getting live calves on the ground is critical for successful cattle production.

Approximately 90% of difficult calvings (dystocias) are due to the calf being relatively oversized for the cow or heifer. Surprisingly only 5% are due to abnormal presentations and other factors like maternal fatigue, deformities and uterine problems.

Stage One: The cervix starts to open and uterine contractions become regular, causing signs of discomfort and restlessness. She may get up and down frequently, arch her back and lift her tail. You may see a mucous 'string' hanging from her vulva We recommend checking her internally or calling your vet if a cow has been restless for 12 hours without progressing to straining.

Stage Two: Begins with the onset of abdominal contractions (straining) and the rupture of foetal membranes (seen as fluid spilling from the vagina). 70 minutes is the average time for this stage, but it ranges from 30 minutes to 4 hours and ends with birth. Heifers normally take longer in stage two than cows.

If a cow has been straining for 30 - 60 minutes without any progress, please consult your veterinarian. For heifers, you could allow 2 – 3 hours.

Stage Three: Begins once the calf is born and ends when foetal membranes (afterbirth) have been passed. This may take up to a week. We recommend a veterinary visit if the afterbirth has not been expelled after 5 days, or earlier if the animal appears unwell as infections are common.

Our veterinarians are well trained to assist with all calving problems.

If your pet is thirstier than usual it could be a sign of kidney disease. Sometimes the increase in thirst can be subtle but if you find yourself filling up the water bowl more regularly, or notice your pet drinking from the shower or toilet, you should arrange a check up with us.  

The kidneys contain thousands of little factories called nephrons and their job is to work out how much water should be conserved in the body. Once damaged or destroyed, nephrons do not function properly and can't regenerate. As a result, the body doesn't conserve enough water so your pet will need to drink more to stay hydrated.

Toxins, drugs, diseases or even just old age can harm the nephrons, and your pet may not show any signs until 75% of these nephrons are damaged.

Other than increased thirst watch out for:

• increased urination
• weight loss
• vomiting
• lethargy

Many other diseases present with similar signs to kidney disease (such as diabetes) so it is important that we investigate further. Measuring your pet's water intake over 24 hours and bringing us a morning urine sample are two things you can do to get the investigation process started. A blood test, urine testing and a measure of your pet's blood pressure may then be necessary.

If we detect that your pet's kidneys are not working properly, the earlier we initiate treatment the better.

It's best to arrange an appointment with us as soon as possible if you notice any changes in your pet's thirst. 

Eye problems in horses are common and can be severe. Severe cases can result in vision loss or require the removal of a chronically painful eye. Quickly recognising the signs of eye pain is crucial in maximising the chances of effective treatment and speedy recovery.

Horses with painful eyes appear to be squinting as the muscles controlling the eyelids spasm, closing the eye. Discharge or weeping can often occur with damage to the surface of the eye, or conjunctivitis. An ulcer is an area where the protective surface of the tissue is missing.

We all know how painful a sore eye can be, especially if something is stuck in there. Only the most cooperative of horses will let us thoroughly examine the eye without sedation. Grass seeds and other foreign bodies can become lodged deep under the eyelids (including the third eyelid) making them difficult to find and remove.

After sedating the horse we will thoroughly examine the eye and under the eyelids. Staining the eye with a fluorescent dye will allow us to see defects to the surface not otherwise visible. An special tool called an opthalmascope may be used to see the internal structures of the eye, which are important for vision. 

After thoroughly assessing the eye a treatment plan can be begun. Treatment often involves application of ointment or drops containing antibiotics and atropine. Antibiotics are used to prevent or treat any infection that can develop on or below the surface of the eye. Atropine helps to dilate the pupil, aiding treatment and providing pain relief. Some horses will become very difficult to treat and in some cases a treatment tube can be surgically placed to make treatment much easier.

Uncomplicated eye injuries or ulcers often improve quickly with the above treatment. In addition to topical ointments or drops we will often prescribe pain relief. Severe complications are rare with eye injuries but given the importance of the eye to a horse we should be proactive in seeking prompt veterinary attention.

Please contact us if your horse’s eye remains painful after treatment.

We thought we'd share our top tips for making bath time easier with your pooch. 

1. Choose the right shampoo - never use human shampoo (even baby shampoo) as it's the wrong pH for your pooch. If your dog is itchy, oily or has sensitive skin, we can recommend the most suitable shampoo for your dog. 

2. Pop some cotton wool in your dog's ears to prevent any water sneaking into the canal - don't forget to take it out after you've finished.

3. Provide a non slip surface - put a towel on the bottom of the bath, or a non slip mat to help your dog feel more secure and prevent slipping. 

4. Place a towel over your dog to prevent water going everywhere when the inevitable shake occurs.

5. Jam some steel wool in the plug hole to catch the wet fur and make cleaning up easier.

If you need any more information about bathing your dog you can always ask us for the most up to date advice. We'll even make sure your dog is clean enough to sleep in your bed!

When it comes to cats and water, things can get pretty hairy! Most cats hate being immersed in water and find the bath an incredibly stressful experience.

Thankfully you don't really need to bathe your feline friend as they are equipped to take care of their own personal hygiene. They have a rough surface on the top of their tongue that acts as a brush.

Having said that, some cats are better at grooming themselves than others so you may need to groom your cat from time to time to help remove dead hair and prevent matting. This is especially the case with longer haired cats. Matting can cause pain and discomfort, and in some cases, your cat may need sedation to have any matting clipped off safely.

Some tips to remember:

• Always check for matting in the armpits and around the bottom
• If your cat is overweight or arthritic she may not groom herself properly
• A decrease in self grooming can be a sign of illness or pain - call us if you are concerned

You should NEVER wash your cat in a flea shampoo as these are almost always pyrethrin based and ARE POISONOUS TO CATS. You should also be aware that dogs bathed in pyrethrin shampoos can be a source of poison for your cat if she licks and grooms your dog. It is best to avoid using flea shampoo if you have a cat around.

Call us if you think your cat might have some grooming issues - we are always happy to help. 

Cats can be very fastidious about their toileting! They tend to like a quiet and private area (who doesn't?) and most prefer plenty of soil to cover things up.

If your cat uses a litter tray, there are some golden rules you should follow to help prevent any problems. 

1. Provide a tray for every cat in the house plus an additional tray -  two cats should have three trays
2. Place the tray in a quiet area 
3. Remove faeces daily and change the litter entirely every 2-3 days
4. Never use cleaning chemicals in the tray - rinse with warm water
5. Don't use fragranced litter or plastic liners as cats hate these
6. Some cats hate a covered tray as it traps the smell, while others prefer the security, so you might need to see what works for your cat

Remember that cats are very clean creatures and prefer deep litter and a large tray to toilet so they can bury their urine and faeces - this is usually why a sandpit is very attractive.

Finally, if your cat isn't using the litter tray correctly you should ask us for advice. There may be other medical issues such as a urinary tract infection complicating the problem or in some cases anxiety, both of which need veterinary treatment.